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The Write Side of 59

Category Archives: Travel

Ellis Island: A Lens to Immigration History

28 Monday Jul 2014

Posted by WS50 in Opinion, Travel

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Ellis Island, Frank Terranella, Immigration, LIberty Island

Ellis1

By FRANK TERRANELLA

Like many New York-area residents, I have never been to many of the tourist meccas like Ellis Island. And since three of my four grandparents were immigrants, I decided on a beautiful Sunday morning recently to see the ground zero of 20th century immigration for myself.

The great thing about a visit to Ellis Island is that the only way to get there is by boat. Of course, that’s the way it’s always been. Between 1892 and 1954 immigrants arrived at Ellis in boats from all over the world. The boats today run a route that includes Liberty Island along with Ellis Island on every trip. So even if you just want to see Ellis Island, you get a free trip to Liberty Island thrown in.

Ellis Island was hit hard by Hurricane Sandy in 2012 and some exhibits are still not back. But what’s there is gold.ellis2 There are artifacts galore and you can tour the great hall where immigrants waited to be called up to be interviewed. You can see where they ate and where they slept. You can see an above-average orientation film that tells the full story of American immigration. And they don’t try to cover up America’s checkered acceptance of immigration. There are whole exhibits to “nativist” hostilities to every immigration group. For some, like the Asians, the dislike was codified into laws that forbade immigration altogether for decades.
But what surprised me most about visiting Ellis Island was the people who accompanied me on the boat. It seemed to me that the vast majority of my fellow visitors were immigrants themselves, or perhaps simply tourists from foreign countries. English speakers were definitely in the minority. And this dismayed me. It seems to me that it would do many native-born Americans good to see the lengths our ancestors went to to try to deal fairly and humanely with immigrants.

From my reading of history, and from the exhibits at Ellis Island, I know that the people who created and worked at the facility were not all big fans of immigration. Yet they followed the law, and I suspect they even bent the law sometimes, to give many needy people a shot at the American dream. The key, of course, was that the laws during the time Ellis Island was operating either allowed unrestricted numbers of immigrants (as long as they were healthy and could prove they had a way to support themselves) or set the ceiling on the number of immigrants high enough that people did not have to wait years or even decades to come into the country legally.

The tour guides at Ellis Island go to great pains to explain that not everyone who came to Ellis Island got to stay in the country. If you were found to have any disease or were otherwise “unqualified,” you would be sent back to your home country. In fact, a member of my family who was found to have tuberculosis was sent back home. He would return to the United States years later after being cured of the disease.

I think that anyone who visits Ellis Island comes away with two thoughts: (1) it was a tough, nerve-wracking way to come into the country but, (2) the process was designed to be fair and efficient and it was that most of the time. One of the rooms you can visit is the make-shift courtroom where immigrants who were being denied admission could have their cases reviewed by administrative judges. The hearings went on all day, every day. Many were able to convince hearing examiners that they were being denied entry unjustly. Contrast this to the detention facilities we have today for unqualified immigrants that provide no right of appeal.

Clearly the immigration situation today is much different than it was 100 years ago. But when you visit Ellis Island, in the shadow of the Statue of Liberty, you can’t help but be thankful that Americans then, while not being crazy about the hordes of immigrants filling up New York City, were compassionate enough and intelligent enough to let them in, in the hope they would contribute to the country.

Essentially, in those days, America made a bargain with the world. You can come here if you promise to work hard and help make America a better place. Even the most ardent immigration opponent would have to agree that the immigrants who came through Ellis Island between 1892 and 1954 kept their side of the bargain. Are we sure that the thousands of people we turn away today because of ridiculously low limits on the number of immigrants cannot similarly contribute?

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Small Plane Travel a Throwback to Civil Aviation

17 Thursday Jul 2014

Posted by WS50 in Men, Travel

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Cockpit Frank

Up front and personal.

BY FRANK TERRANELLA

Unlike our children, who take air travel for granted, most of us over-50s remember a time when air travel was not the norm. When I was a child, many of my friends still took trains to travel to Florida. Many people still took ships to Europe.

I attended many a bon voyage party my grandparents threw on ships docked on the piers of Manhattan, bound for Italy. It was a great occasion for us kids. We got to go aboard a giant steamliner like the Leonardo DaVinci, and explore the ship from stem to stern while our parents sat around tables in the restaurant enjoying pastries and coffee. In the security-obsessed world of today, no one would dream of allowing non-passengers to roam aboard (or letting their children wander a ship alone, for that matter). And that’s a shame.

It’s also a shame that family and friends cannot go to the gate to see us off at airports anymore. When I took my first flight nearly 50 years ago, we just walked onto the plane with no security of any kind. When we walked aboard, we were greeted warmly by stewardesses who treated us as if air travel was something special (as it was for middle class folks). There were even commemorative pins for kids enjoying their first flight. Stewardesses brought all the food and drink you could want. And there was room to stretch, because the flights were rarely full. In fact, when flights filled up, they often rolled out another plane. No one ever got “bumped.” Flights were canceled only due to mechanical or weather issues.

Contrast that with air travel in 2014. This year I have taken eight flights in six months and have had one flight canceled, and another delayed seven hours.

United Airlines was the culprit last month when my flight from St. Louis to Newark was canceled on a clear, sunny day without any reason ever given. And then to add insult to injury, they rebooked me to fly from St. Louis to Chicago, and then Chicago to Boston (and then Boston to Newark), and acted as if I should be thankful they had provided a plan for getting me home. They wanted to turn a three-hour flight into 13 hours, and have me be happy about it.

My point is that air travel just isn’t what it used to be. Now I know that makes me sound like an old curmudgeon. I remember laughing when Burt Lancaster’s character in the film “Atlantic City,” says to a young friend, “Look at the ocean. The Atlantic isn’t what it used to be. You should have seen the ocean years ago.”

But I don’t think even air travel executives would deny that the experience today is not what it used to be. They would probably blame economic factors like fuel prices and security factors like TSA regulations for the difference. But the truth is that air travel today is about as enjoyable as riding a bus. And far more expensive.

That is why when our pilot friend Brian offered to take us for a ride in his four-seater plane recently, my wife and I accepted immediately. The plane was at the Provincetown, Massachusetts airport where Brian had flown it from his upstate New York home. Pat and I arrived with Brian at the airport, and you could see immediately a return to the early days of commercial aviation. The airport personnel treated everyone as special. There was no TSA security. Brian keyed in a code to open the gate and we walked to where his plane was tied up. Brian opened the door, and we got in.He meticulously checked the plane out, and gave us safety instructions, and then we were off. As we cruised over Cape Cod, I thought that this is the way travel should be. No lines at the airport, no taking off your shoes, no being patted down. We could just enjoy the ride as human beings, not just butts in seats.

More than a half-century of commercial aviation has taken all of the charm, and most of the civility out of air travel. When only rich people traveled regularly by commercial airlines, everyone who traveled received top-notch treatment. Today, when everyone travels by air, it’s just transportation. The airline slogans bear this out. In the 1930s, Delta Airlines’ slogan was “Speed, Comfort and Convenience.” By 1984, the slogan was “Delta Gets You There.” I rest my case.

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Before the Tequila Shot…

10 Tuesday Jun 2014

Posted by WS50 in Art, Travel

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Agave, New Mexico, Road Runner, Tequila

Agave Plant. Photo by Frank Terranella

Agave Plant. Photo by Frank Terranella

BY FRANK TERRANELLA

Here is the plant that gives us tequila. It grows wild along the highways of southern New Mexico. I wonder if this is what fuels the Road Runner, New Mexico’s state bird.

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Sleeping Patterns Post 50: Erratic and Unpredictable

04 Wednesday Jun 2014

Posted by WS50 in Concepts, Travel

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Nap time, Sleeping patterns

Catching a few zzz's midday

Catching a few zzz’s midday

By FRANK TERRANELLA

Most of the people I know who are over 80 take naps every day. That’s something those of us over 50 but still working don’t have the luxury to do. Although I don’t usually nap even on days off, I think that one of the benefits of retirement for me will be the ability take an afternoon nap if I want to.

It used to be part of the culture in Europe. I remember being in Europe back in 1972 and being amazed that many businesses shut down for lunch and an afternoon siesta. This was especially true in the warmer Mediterranean countries. Now, due to our pernicious example, many Europeans have adopted American working habits. But there’s a lot to be said for recharging the batteries and avoiding the midday sun.

While I don’t get to nap in the afternoon, my commuting does have the advantage of giving me at least 30 minutes of nap-available time on my bus trip home. I take advantage of that opportunity fairly often. To me, that’s one of the prime benefits of using mass transit.

Before I started working in Manhattan, I commuted to various New Jersey locations by car every day. Many were the days when the commute was more tiring than the job. Now, in exchange for a monthly payment to New Jersey Transit, I get to leave the driving to someone else and take a nap. I find that when I get a chance to take a nap on the commute home, I feel refreshed for my evening. But when I don’t, I often find my eyes closing as I watch television after about 9:30. On those days, it’s bed by 10:00. I recognize this as a result of age because I never had trouble staying awake before I hit 50.

The other change in my sleeping patterns that has emerged since I turned 50 is that I awake at sunrise no matter whether it’s a work day or not. Years ago I could just turn over and go back to sleep. But now I find I am physically uncomfortable staying in bed. So even on vacation I was up at 6 and in bed by 10.

Apart from the issue of sleep is the fact that in recent years I find that whenever I sit in a darkened room my eyes close, even if that darkened room happens to be a movie house or a Broadway theater. Billy Crystal speaks elegantly of this phenomenon in his book, “Still Foolin’ ‘Em,” which I wrote about on this blog last October.

In his case, it’s particularly embarrassing because people recognize him as he nods off at a Broadway show. For me, at least there’s the anonymity of just being that old person nodding off. But this nodding off syndrome has nothing to do with being tired or even the time of day. It has to do with the dark, and being over 50.

Oh, and it may have something to do with all the medications I have been taking since I turned 50. So as I make my way to old age I know that I’ll be sleeping more and more all the time. The timing may be a bit off because while my grandson Bryce still sleeps most of every day, he’s sleeping less all the time. Soon he’ll be awake more than me. And that’s OK. I’ll need someone to cut the lawn while I nap.

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Think Phoenix for Retirement

28 Wednesday May 2014

Posted by WS50 in Opinion, Travel

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Dry Heat, Frank Terranella, NYC heat, Phoenix, Retirement, Sun City

frank and the cactusBY FRANK TERRANELLA

Several years ago, I saw a cartoon showing a man at the gates of hell. Satan is there in all his horned glory sitting behind a desk and before him is a man who has obviously just arrived. Sweat is pouring off the man’s brow as he wipes his brow with a concerned look on his face. Satan is speaking to the man. The cartoon’s caption reads: “Yes, but it’s a dry heat.”

On my recent trip to the Southwest desert I was able to experience this dry heat for three full weeks. And after all that time, I have to say that there’s something to this retort by residents of Arizona, Nevada and New Mexico when asked how they can stand triple digit temperatures for weeks at a time.

Of course, traveling in April and May, I did not get to experience 100-degree days. The hottest it got in Phoenix while I was there was 98, but a few degrees don’t matter too much when you’re baking in an oven. So what’s the difference between 98 degrees in Phoenix and 98 degrees in New York?

You can breathe in Phoenix. It’s as simple as that. Breathing on a hot August night in New York is like drinking a thick shake through a narrow straw. It takes effort. Breathing hot air in Arizona takes no effort at all.

The other advantage of low humidity is the fact that shade brings instant relief from the heat. I didn’t bring a thermometer too measure it, but I swear it felt like a 20-degree difference. The low humidity also means that due to radiational cooling, the temperature drops like rock as soon as the sun goes down. Our days began in the 50s and rapidly increased, but the mornings were always delightful. Likewise, the evenings were comfortable enough to sit outside and dine al fresco.

Having said all this, it is a fact that modern life would be unimaginable in Phoenix without air conditioning. The afternoon heat seems intense enough to bake bread. Air conditioning is not a convenience; it’s life support. The evidence of this is that in 1950, only 107,000 hardy souls lived in Phoenix. Once air conditioning became practical, the people came. By 1960 there were 440,000. As of 2012, there were 1.5 million.

And people are still coming. Why? One word — sunshine. We were in the Southwest for 20 days and had 19 days of sunshine. Those are pretty good odds. On average, Phoenix gets 296 days of sunshine every year and just 8 inches of rain. By contrast, New York averages 50 inches of rain. Even Los Angeles averages 15 inches of rain a year.

So if you want to wake up every day to sunshine, Phoenix is the place.

And in fact, thousands of Americans retire to Arizona every year. The famous retirement village Sun City is just outside Phoenix. Everywhere we went we met former New Yorkers who had retired to Arizona. I don’t think I would want to go that far, but if I could swing it, I certainly would love to spend my retirement winters there. Sure it’s hot, but it’s a dry heat!

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The Roswell Triangle … Other Worldly

21 Wednesday May 2014

Posted by WS50 in Travel

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aliens, Carlsbad Cavern, Roswell Triangle, White Sands National Park

The UFO Museum at Roswell

The UFO Museum at Roswell

BY FRANK TERRANELLA

My recent Southwest tour completed my goal of visiting all 48 contiguous states. In fact, it included standing at Four Corners, where Arizona, Colorado, Utah and New Mexico all come together. Since we had already visited the first three of those on previous trips, it was the visit to New Mexico that was key. After Four Corners, we spent a week touring New Mexico.

Northern New Mexico was very artsy and high class with art museums, old Spanish churches and great restaurants. But it was Southern New Mexico that was the most surprising.

The Land of Enchantment tended toward the bizarre as we pulled into Roswell. This is the town outside of which an alien spaceship is said to have landed in 1947. The U.S. Government is alleged to have covered up the incident and there is a UFO Museum in Roswell where they lay out the evidence. The thing about this is that even though most Roswell residents probably don’t believe that any aliens ever landed there, they have run with it and created a tourist destination for themselves. You have to hand it to them. Their tongue-in-cheek exploitation of fringe beliefs is just genius. Everyone is aboard for the fun. Even McDonald’s features alien burgers.

Then, a few miles south of Roswell is the second point on the Roswell Triangle — Carlsbad. The fun here begins with an elevator ride that takes you 700 feet below the surface. There you find an alien landscape of stalagmites and stalactites. Carlsbad Caverns is an enormous underground wonderland of beautiful rocks that creates a landscape that would make any Roswell alien feel at home.

Carlsbad Cavern

Carlsbad Cavern

The underground pathways run for more than a mile and the temperature is always in the 50s (even when the temperature at the surface is in the 90s). From Carlsbad you can complete the triangle with a trip to White Sands National Monument.

This is where the government tests missiles. They even have a sign that tells you that when the red light is on, missile testing is scheduled and you can’t come in. But when they’re not testing missiles, this is a must see location. The place looks like a scene out of Lawrence of Arabia. There’s white sand everywhere!

The main road at White Sands National Park

The main road at White Sands National Park

I think that standing in the White Sands park is the closest we can come to being in the middle of the Sahara. It is nothing but miles and miles of white sand in every direction as far as the eye can see — even on the road! I guess that’s why they test missiles there. You certainly couldn’t hurt anything and it’s easy to find the debris. It’s another unique, alien landscape.

I recommend that everyone experience the wonders of the Roswell Triangle. You could easily visit all three in a day and you will be rewarded with a trip to alien worlds. It’s a break from more familiar cityscapes of Albuquerque and Santa Fe and it provide sights that will stay with you forever.

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Hollywood’s Wild West Has Nothing on the Real Thing

07 Wednesday May 2014

Posted by WS50 in Men, Travel

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Photo by Frank Terranella.

Nothing says “Out West” like Monument Valley, in Arizona. Ever since John Ford’s time, directors have flocked to this site located on Navajo land to film westerns. Being here is like being on a backlot. Yet, it’s real, and that authenticity can’t be reproduced in Hollywood.

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Out West, Where the Weather is Vertical

02 Friday May 2014

Posted by WS50 in Men, Travel

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Frank Terranella, Men, The Write Side of 50, Travel

photo 1

BY FRANK TERRANELLA

One of the prime benefits of travel is to experience the unfamiliar. For example, if you want to see what it would be like to drive on the left side of the road, you need to travel to a British Commonwealth country. And if you want to see the Aurora Borealis, you need to travel to the far North.

Living in the New York area, we are accustomed to little variations in altitude. No matter where you start from, you never experience more than about a thousand-foot variation in altitude within 50 miles of New York. Even traveling to the nearby Pocono or Catskill “mountains” does not significantly change things. These are mere foothills compared to what they have in Colorado. In fact, the entire city of Denver is at a higher altitude than any of the peaks in the Catskills or Poconos.

So since New Yorkers have no concept of altitude, we don’t think of weather depending on altitude. This was brought home to me recently while traveling in Northern Arizona. We were driving from the Grand Canyon to Zion National Park in Utah. As we started our drive, it was raining lightly. This was fine for several hours, but then we began to climb up towards Zion, and suddenly, as we crossed over 7,000 feet, we were in a ferocious snowstorm.

photo 2

This lasted only until we descended down to 5,000 feet, and then it was light rain again. We were seeing first-hand that weather is vertical. That’s why out West, the weather forecasts don’t simply say that such-and-such an area will have certain weather. They say that the weather will be X, but above 6,000 feet it will be Y, and above 7,000 feet it will be Z. And this is all in the same town! We just don’t have weather like that in the New York area. Our weather is horizontal, not vertical.

The next day, it was a beautiful sunny day as we began our drive in Zion National Park at an altitude of about 6,000 feet. We were on a short drive to a mountain lake. As the road began to climb, we noticed that the temperature was dropping. At 6,000 feet it was 55 degrees. By the time we got to 8,000 feet it was 34 degrees. But the biggest shock was that, in 30 minutes, the terrain went from a green springtime pasture to a snow-covered winter wonderland.

The road actually became impassable with snow, and we had to turn around and go back, or risk being stuck there. Yes, weather is vertical out West, and that’s a foreign mindset for many of us. But experiencing the foreign is why we travel. And it’s usually a lot of fun!

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Rock Art in Sedona

30 Wednesday Apr 2014

Posted by WS50 in Art, Men, Travel

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Arizona, Art, Bird sculpture, Frank Terranella, Men, red rocks, Sedona, The Write Side of 50, Travel

Sedona, Arizona.

Sedona, Arizona.

Our resident blogger, Frank Terranella, is on a road trip out West. Before he left, we asked that he send photos so that we could experience his experience vicariously. This one shows one of the rock formations in Sedona, Arizona.

“What intrigued me is the bird-like figure in the rock,” he wrote. “I have no idea who did this, or if anyone did it.”

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The Orchid Show: Boot (and Wheelchair) Included

29 Tuesday Apr 2014

Posted by WS50 in Travel

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Tags

Julie Seyler, The New York Botanical Garden, The Orchid Show, The Write Side of 50

orchid show 3

BY JULIE SEYLER

Every spring The Orchid Show comes to The New York Botanical Garden in the Bronx. And every year, Steve and I try to make a trip out there because orchids never fail to dazzle. This year was a bit of a challenge because of my toe-cyst surgery.

Stitches getting removed

Stitches getting removed.

The stitches had been removed, and the doctor had confirmed that his bone-packing procedure looked to be working very well. But to make sure that the mending continued on schedule, I was ordered to wear the post-surgical boot religiously for the next four weeks. This was going to make walking around the botanical gardens impossible. But as usual Steve, the pragmatist, solved the problem. He suggested that we get a wheelchair. He could drive me around the flowers.

My immediate reaction was vocal, passionate resistance. I definitely was not chronologically prepared for the idea that I was to be consigned to a wheelchair. But last year when my mother happened to have a bad back, we had taken advantage of the free companion chair that is offered to all visitors of the garden so they can participate in the beauty of the place. Ultimately, logic, my love of orchids, and the gorgeous Sunday sun trumped my personal sense of embarrassment. I was able to get my orchid-fix, (along with the knowledge that I was a lot harder to push around than my mother, i.e. “heavier”).


orchid 2 orchid 3orchid 4

rchid 3

white orchids

And, as I write this I only have two weeks and four days until the boot comes off. Looking forward to it because, as you can see, the boot is hardly a fashion statement.

The road to recovery.

The road to recovery.

 

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